Les Grands Magasins de Paris

I broke one of Madame's plates a few weeks ago. On Saturday, I went to visit some department stores and look for a replacement.

My first stop was Galleries Lafayette. It's been a few years since I was there: all I remember was the ceiling and the number of street vendors outside. This department store is slightly less expensive than Le Bon Marché and Printemps, but it's still pretty nice. It's a lot like Macy's in New York, or the store formerly known as Marshall Field's (RIP, sniff) in Chicago.

I came in through the entrance from the metro, so I didn't see the Christmas decorations until I left. The basement floor is called VO: Version Original, and it's a mix of vintage and trendy labels for men and women. The ground floor is absolutely resplendent: there's an enormous Christmas tree floating above the makeup counters. The ceiling looks like a birthday cake, with enameled layers rising up into a single point.

I went to the separate Maison store to look for a plate, and I got extreme envy; couples were registering for weddings all over the place, and all the cookware was shiny and gorgeous. I found myself considering various stew pots, deciding between the rabbit or the goose handle. I eventually got back on track, but no cake plates.

Outside, about six windows are decorated with moving Christmas scenes. Coming from Chicago, home of Marshall Field's, I have to say these windows are pretty boring. However, they are better than anything else I've seen in France. I found myself obsessing over the music in this window.

Store: A-
Goods: B
Christmas decorations: A+

Second stop: Printemps. It's right down the street from Galleries Lafayette, but it's very different. I find that less people tend to go in Printemps, and the ones who do are usually French or just rich. It's a much more expensive store, and smaller. I went right up to the third floor of the Maison store to poke around for plates, and got completely distracted. There are several little stands in the middle of the floor, selling food, chocolate, and pastries. I hadn't eaten yet, so I bought myself a chicken pie. It was flaky and delicious, and bonus! not too far away from the Laudrée counter. I waited for my pastry to heat up and stared longingly at the macrons glistening pinkly and greenly. Pretty.

The decorations are pretty nul: the actual strings of lights are gorgeous, because they are wound around in big loops and an occasional pink disco ball is stuck here and there. Unfortunately, someone had the bright idea of sticking thousands of tiny flashing lights, like white police sirens, among the rest of the mellow decorations. Thus, the whole effect is like a disco gone wrong. Boo.

Store: B
Goods: A
Christmas decorations: B-

I decided to go to my happy place, Le Bon Marché, and eventually found a plate. This is the most expensive and exclusive of the department stores in Paris, and it's my favorite. I rarely buy things here-- it's so ridiculously above my price range. Mostly, I just cruise the aisles of haute couture until I feel better. Then I go to Zara, across the street, and buy something that faintly resembles what I really wanted to buy from Zac Posen or Balenciaga.

The home floor was set up like the rest of the displays: spare, with white walls and gorgeous chandeliers made out of wisps or ladles. I picked out a cake plate that looks similar to the one I broke, and then peaced out.

The decorations are pretty boring here: pink lights inside and out. I do really like the dangling strands of diamonds that reflect the spotlights, though. The top floor also has some Christmas trees, but they are small and intended to be sold to consumers, so nothing crazy. However, there are two separate champaign bars inside: a Krug one on the top floor, and a Dom Perignon in the Grande Epicerie.

Store: A
Goods: A+
Christmas decorations: B